Who has never wondered how the cosmetics in their bathroom are created? After decoding INCI ingredient lists, LAO is now taking you behind the scenes of how your favorite hair care products are formulated.

Whether they are conventional or natural cosmetics, the approach is very similar: formulation means combining active ingredients and other elements to create a stable formula, for quality products that work well for our skin or our hair.

Understanding the 3 ways to formulate cosmetics

White label

White label is a technical term for a commercial process in which a brand sells products to its customers without being the manufacturer or even the supplier, and without naming the ones behind the formulation.

We talk about white label when a cosmetic product on the market was designed by a third party (a laboratory, a company...) and the brand sells it so that it looks like its own in its customers' eyes.

The brand simply buys a finished product from another company.
Customers aren't necessarily aware of this approach when they buy from certain brands, but it is a very common practice!
And when people do know where the products come from, we talk instead about gray label or open label.

In-house laboratories

Some brands decide to work with an in-house laboratory, meaning the laboratory works only with that brand and for that brand in designing its cosmetics. Unlike white label products, these are formulated to address a specific issue and meet a very precise set of specifications.

This brings expertise and a real understanding of the brand's challenges, since the brand is in direct communication with the laboratory.
This system is often used by well-known brands and large groups.

Custom-made

Custom-made cosmetics are designed and tailored to a wish, an issue...

Without necessarily having the means to invest in their own in-house laboratory, but not wanting to simply buy and sell an existing product, some brands turn to a laboratory.

Together, the brand and the laboratory work on the product. Unlike in-house laboratories, this laboratory can also work with other brands, but it will aim to formulate customized, even unique, products, unlike white label.

In some cases, a cosmetic brand is founded by someone with expertise in this field, which also allows for a more advanced and personalized approach.

Discover LAO's approach

From the very start, LAO's mission has been to design cosmetics for the well-being of men and women while allowing them to limit their impact on our planet. That is how the desire to offer unique natural cosmetics was born.

Lisa, LAO's founder, no longer wanted to use conventional shampoos and was disappointed by many natural shampoos, so she decided to reinvent natural.
Issues like hair that tends to be oily or an itchy scalp guided the search for ingredients and active ingredients in the creation of the washing products.

But since she didn't want to compromise, lather and the look of the hair were also essential, which is why, after a few years of research,

LAO teamed up with a formulator to create the best possible formula for you.
What's more, every product is now co-created with you, the LAO community, based on your needs, your issues, your wishes, your feedback...

To learn more about Nathalie, our formulator and natural expert, head right here.

What regulations apply to your cosmetics?

Your favorite cosmetics, natural or conventional, are subject to certain rules before they can be sold to you. We've already told you about the INCI list and labels, but there are many other standards and rules to follow.

Cosmetic products, that is, products in direct contact with the superficial parts of the human body, are governed by European as well as French regulations.

But what exactly is regulated in cosmetics?

Here are a few examples:
- Substances: some are banned, others are subject to restrictions.
- Claims: you can't say just anything about your product. Even if you want to highlight an active ingredient it contains, it is very important to comply with the law and to be certain of the facts you put forward.
- During creation, rules also apply to materials, manufacturing premises, traceability, and so on.

To learn more, the ANSM website lists the basics of cosmetics regulations, up to setting up your own company.

Follow us on social media to take part in creating your future favorite cosmetics!